The Cause Me to Travel Blog

Day 5 – Southern Africa

Though we learned a great deal in the Johannesburg area, we were looking forward to Cape Town for a completely different experience.  Before we departed, we enjoyed an unhurried breakfast.  Never one to adhere to rules around what to eat at breakfast vs. what to eat for lunch or dinner, I could not resist adding oysters to my fruit plate!  Looking back on this photograph now, this does seem a little weird.

Oysters with hot sauce with an olive and fruit accompaniment

After bidding the Melrose Arch goodbye, we were swept away to the airport for our two-hour flight to Cape Town.  On the way, we were treated to a dose political discussion on all things related to our upcoming presidential election here in the US, the strike at the platinum mine in South Africa, and possible changes ahead in the South African political landscape.  Just about everywhere we went, South Africans were very, very interested to hear about what’s going on outside their world.  I found them to be incredibly knowledgable about our current events, far more so than we are about theirs.  Equally impressive, and similar to Europeans, most South Africans speak multiple languages.  Almost everyone we met, granted many of them work in the travel industry where this is encouraged, spoke a minimum of nine languages.  Anyway,  I won’t get into a political discussion here, but I will say that many South Africans have a deeper understanding of what’s happening in the US than folks who live here.   However, I was surprised that some of our new friends did not realize that reality shows are not “real,” and our tv court shows like Judge Judy, The People’s Court, and Judge Alex are all scripted.  People really form their opinion of us based on what they see on tv; too bad so much of it is far from the truth.

When we touched down in Cape Town, the skies were cloudy and rain was in the forecast for the remainder of the day.  Bearing in mind that South Africa’s seasons are opposite ours, we were experiencing winter at its finest at the southernmost edge of Africa.  Not so bad really…a little rain and clouds, and temperatures in the low 60’s.  Eventually the clouds and rain gave way to glorious sunshine!  We couldn’t have been more delighted.  So after checking into the One&Only, we relaxed for the remainder of the day and enjoyed the hotel and all that it has to offer.

One&Only arrival

View of Table Mountain from my balcony

My home for the next three nights

Fantastic soaking tub

Much too chilly for a swim in the infinity pool, but I’ll be back!

For anyone who aims to stay in shape while on vacation….

At Reuben’s, a new twist on lobster bisque – it’s topped with a pastry/pie-like crust

Another dish at Reuben’s – a curried chicken Malay-influenced meal

Yes, the food was fantastic.  More on that later.

We turned in for the evening, preparing for tomorrow’s big day at Robben Island.

Day 4 – Southern Africa

Our next day in South Africa started with an early drive out to the Cradle of Humankind’s Sterkfontein Caves and Maropeng.   The caves and Maropeng are part of a string of archeological sites at which some of the most important and oldest fossils have been found within the world.  Beyond just visiting the people of modern day Africa, we stepped back in time and visited the very same one of the caves our evolutionary ancestors used.  We crawled and climbed, and retraced what it may have been like to live where Mrs Ples and Little Foot lived.  These fossils are among the best known and best preserved in the world, and date back as early as 200,000 years ago.

The road to Sterkfontein

Sterkfontein entrance

Descending into the cave

Photos of fossil structures found in the cave

The trip was well worth the visit.  I hadn’t expected to crawl through the stalagtite limestone cave as I was worried about low oxygen levels within, but I made it through along with the rest of the group.  There were plenty “Beware of Snakes” signs posted about, but we were assured that there were snakes around this time of year, and that there would most certainly not be any in the cave because the temperature (a constant 17 celcius) is too cool for them to strike a human if they’re even inside the cave to begin with which is doubtful.

I was still a little afraid, but braved the walk anyway.

After our cave walk and fantastic overview from our guide, we visited Maropeng, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, which was full of exhibitions explaining the history of the universe, cosmic metamorphosis, climate change, sustainability, and even the impacts of poverty as well as overconsumption on the planet.  This had to have been one of the best exhibits I’ve seen that will appeal to adults and kids alike.

Making our way back to daylight

Approaching Maropeng, the interpretation center for the Cradle of Humankind

One of the educational exhibits at Maropeng that traces our origins and focuses on our shared traits

We were running out of steam after the climb and exhibits, so we headed back to Johannesburg and continued our discussion on all things Zulu with our driver.

The night ended with a stop at Haagen Dazs next to the hotel for two scoops of my favorite, Cookies and Cream!!! The ladies left me on my own, and didn’t join in the sugar rush.

Haagen Dazs Cookies & Cream at Melrose Arch

Before turning in for the evening, I made a quick dash to the financial district to snap a few photos of the area.  I’m often asked what “downtown” Johannesburg looks like.  Well, it’s such a large city with many different neighborhoods that it’s hard to pin down what would be considered “downtown.”  So here are a few photos, including one of my driver who seemed to be quite bored.  Take a look:

Out and about in Sandton

Nelson Mandela Square Mall

Just outside the D’Avinci Hotel which was built to accommodate FIFA 2009 World Cup attendees

Clearly my driver is ready for a nap

Day 3 – Southern Africa

So sorry for not posting yesterday immediately following our experience in Alexandra Township and Soweto yesterday.   I am at such a loss for words to describe the range of emotions felt during our Taste of South Africa tour to Liliesleaf Farm, Alexandra Township, and Soweto.  We also managed to squeeze in a drive through several of Johannesburg’s most well-to-do neighborhoods near Sandton, for a stark comparison to what we experienced in Alexandra and some parts of Soweto.

As my goal here is to provide you with just enough information to stir your interest, or perhaps even increase your interest in South Africa such that you will allow me to tailor a trip just for you, or join me on my next group trip, I will not re-live every moment of the experience here.  What I can tell you is that despite having visited several times before, I would come here a thousand times more.  With just about every thoughtful encounter with the people here, I learn more about humanity – particularly what motivates us and to what extent we will go to preserve our lives.  I have so much to say about this place, but I know many of you are not keen on political discussion when it comes to vacations.  For you, enjoy the photos and their brief discussions.  For the others, feel free to scroll on down after the photos and follow my thoughts on some of what we witnessed yesterday.

Robin Binckes, our private guide for the day is definitely a Godsend.  Again, I will not describe everything about him in detail, but he certainly gave a wonderful overview of apartheid’s beginnings, the contributions of Nelson Mandela and many unsung heroes in its abolishment, and where things currently stand for black, white, and colored South Africans.  Robin’s perspective is a unique one, for sure, as a white South African whose family members were amongst the earliest English settlers of the land.  Might I note that I’ve heard quite a few perspectives, too…from South Africans across the board relative to race and political view, and surprisingly Robin’s was the common thread united all of them.

To set the tone for a day of contrasts, we drove through Parktown’s streets, lined with multi-million dollar (yes, I’m referencing USD here, not ZAR, South Africa’s currency, one of which is approximately worth about 12 US cents) homes blocked from view by high concrete walls and gates left over from the days of rampant burglary.  In the business district of Sandton, a Johannesburg enclave, we breezed by the Johannesburg Stock Exchange, South African headquarters of many firms you may recognize – PwC, Ernst & Young, Vodacom, NedBank to name a few, two Radisson hotels, an Intercontinental, the DaVinci Hotel, and the Michelangelo Towers.

We then headed to Liliesleaf Farm, a very important place in the history of civil rights here in South Africa where the Rivonia 11 Trials were born.  No history lesson from me….read about it on your own, then call me to book your tour.  Robin brought the day of the arrests at Liliesleaf to life with his narrative as we stood on what many would argue is sacred ground.

Main House at Liliesleaf Farm

Service houses and storage at Liliesleaf

A photo of Mr. Mandela hanging inside his old study at Liliesleaf

After Liliesleaf, we headed to Alexandra Township, the lesser known of Johannesburg’s two major townships which were established for blacks to reside as part of the Group Area Act (you may want to research that act).   Robin suggested that most of Alexandra’s residents were worse off than most of Soweto’s, the other Johannesburg township, and I knew he was right as soon as we entered having visited Soweto on previous trips.  I will not even attempt to describe the poverty we witnessed, and I will not attempt to dress anything up by saying that everyone still looked happy despite all that they lacked.  I will say that everyone knew Robin, and they all smiled when they saw him.  We visited his creche, or day care, for young children, and I have never seen a man greeted by so much love all at once by 50 exuberant kids.  We were happy to receive an equally warm reception, perhaps by our association with Robin, as he described us as his friends from America.  No one held out a hand to ask for anything.  We all only received hugs, high fives, thumbs-ups, and leg tugs.  In the midst of all those hugs and smiles and literal jumps for joy for Robin and us, I realized that I had never experienced such a genuine sense of “I’m so happy to see you that I cannot contain myself” from anyone other than family members and extremely close friends.  This love was about as innocent as you will ever see from another human being, and I will hold onto that memory forever.  They were so mannerable, so warm and friendly, beyond beautiful.  When we left, I was truly sad to leave, and even more pained by the horrible living conditions we saw as we drove by the shacks many of those children call home.  As we approached the intersection we’d cross leaving the township, I suddenly realized that the sprawling complex of modern buildings directly in front of us, perched high on a hill looking directly at us was Sandton, one of, if not THE wealthiest neighborhood in all of Africa.  Two places, perhaps not even 5 miles apart, yet worlds away, staring squarely at each other all day, every day.  Life couldn’t be so different between Alexandra and Sandton, but what I realized as we were sitting at that stop light, is that residents in both communities, in all communities have the same goal – survival.  More on that later in today’s post.

View of Nelson Mandela’s former Alexandra Township home

Huge rocks like these found throughout Alexandra serve as barriers preventing drunken drivers from crashing through homes (and they are also covered in oil to prevent loiterers)

Just outside a hostel for men intended to house 5,000

A closer look

Shared transport vans carrying workers to and from Alexandra

As a man thinketh, so is he

Typical street lined with shacks within Alexandra

On our way inside Friends of Alexandra, one of Robin’s outreach programs for the children of Alexandra

The kids were thrilled to see us

Making new friends

Hugs for everyone!

Next up was Soweto, which, thanks to the World Cup events in 2009 held throughout South Africa, appears to have improved quite a bit since the last time I visited in 2008. The area benefitted from tourism preparation, and there are a few more parks in which Soweto’s children play, more low-cost housing that replaced many of the shacks, and a renewed sense of pride.  Still, there is poverty of course, and some does rival what we saw in Alexandra, but things have changed for the better in Soweto.  We passed Nelson Mandela’s former home, Hector Pieterson’s house and Museum, Bishop Tutu’s home, and Regina Mundi Catholic Church.  I’m not going to describe the significance of those people and places, but you may want to do some reading on your own if you’re interested.

Just outside Bishop Tutu’s home

Robin stopped us at Sakhumzi Restaurant for lunch, and while everyone else wanted seconds on the sausage, I couldn’t get enough of the curried cabbage.  I had no choice but to be done, however, because they were all out.  I’d only had half a spoon’s full, but I was hooked.  That alone would be worth a trip back to Soweto.

Dining al fresco at Sakhumzi

And all throughout the day, Robin infused our visit to each stop with poignant reflection.  We were each completely engaged in the story of ALL of South Africa’s people.  I want so much to share more, but….you have to go for yourself.  And no, I can’t imagine that your trip will be ruined because of what you see in the townships.  In fact, you may even be inspired to do more, be more than ever before.

So, I said earlier that I had more to say for those who were interested, well here’s just a small part of my thoughts from yesterday related to apartheid and the townships.

Whether the actions we take to preserve, and even propel ourselves toward our goals are good or bad is relative.  When we remove judgment around whether one’s actions are good or bad, we realize they have the same end, self preservation.  I guess what I’m trying to say here is that the people who are in Alexandra Township, an area that brings to mind the old Sally Struthers Feed the Children commercials with children wandering in filth, living in shacks without water, electricity, clean water (or any water at all), or food are trying to survive and do whatever they can, whether “bad” or “good” to do that.  Similarly, those who drafted, enacted, enforced, upheld, enabled, etc. the apartheid laws which resulted in much of the abject poverty we still see today, were/are (many of them are still alive, and are holding on to their beliefs) trying to survive, though perhaps on a grander scale.  Yes, South Africa has been “free” since 1994, but so has everyone in the US since 1865.  The manifestations of the legacies of apartheid in South Africa and slavery in the US are still very much alive.  Beyond what we can physically see, the biggest remnant of these institutions lies in the psyche of the oppressor and the oppressed, the perceived winner and the perceived victim, and their future generations for who knows how long.

Whatever the case, self preservation is the bottom line, and that can mean that my gain is achieved from your loss regardless of which party we’re talking about here.  Of course South Africa is not unique – this takes place unfortunately on some level in every country, every society, and has taken place throughout time.  Though I was not yet born when the world watched America’s most well-known civil rights leaders throughout the 60’s and 70’s work to bring about changes that I am benefitting from right now, I have experienced my share of confrontations in this area.  While they can hardly compare to what my parents and those before them experienced, I have had challenges of my own in the 80’s, 90’s, and even within recent years and I know how difficult it’s been for me at times to determine the most effective way to combat my civil rights issues.  So for a country proclaiming freedom for all since 1994, it’s amazing to me that they’ve gotten this far in 18 years, and that there has not been more mass resistance since then.

I have no simple remedy for poverty.  Of course education is extremely important, but so is employment once a student graduates.  Without income no matter how much education you have, you can’t address your basic needs – clothing, food, shelter.  If you have any ounce of care in you toward your fellow man or woman no matter his or her political views, race, religion, profession, or favorite sports team, you’d value life enough to agree that these people need help and not be deterred from giving help even if you might believe that you’re only extending their lives just a little longer.  Clearly, I want every single financial contribution to go toward clothing, feeding, protecting, and educating those who need it, and I will continue to do what I can.  But something in addition to financial contributions is required to change the mentality of those who are struggling to survive in Alexandra and its sister communities around the world, and those who are doing all that they can to maintain their dominance to the point of continued oppression.   I just wish I knew what that something should be.

Day 2 – Southern Africa

This morning, we headed northeast past Pretoria to visit the former Cullinan Diamond Mine which is now owned by Petra Diamonds.  Our driver, S’busiso, packed the hour-long drive with a very thorough overview of the history of the Zulu people from the days of Shaka Zulu up to the  present day leadership of Jacob Zuma, South Africa’s current president.  I won’t reveal all that we learned in hopes that you will be motivated to visit South Africa and get an authentic history lesson, but know that we each felt enlightened beyond what we had ever read or heard about this tribe after our time with him.  S’busiso also offered us a little more insight into the tragedy at Marikana which differed from what we had seen in the press.  We are certainly not in a position to take sides or make any judgment calls, but we did get a perspective we wouldn’t have gotten had we not had the benefit of meeting him.

As we began to see the mine in the distance, S’busiso gave us a Cliff’s Notes version of the process resulting in the formation of diamonds and how they are mined.  We were primed well once onsite as his briefing fit perfectly with the diagrams, photos, equipment, and buildings we saw.

Heading toward the mine

Worker and tourist entrance

Just before we reached the entrance point and sat down for our introductory video, we witnessed a Sunday Tradition in the town – motorcyclists up from Johannesburg having breakfast/brunch.  The beginning of the street fronting the mine was loaded with bikes, mostly sportbikes from a range of makers and Harleys.  This was totally unexpected, and of course, I planned to get a photo on the way back so as to not detract us from our plans to arrive on time, but they were all just about gone once our tour was done.  So…it’s not like I don’t know this, but, I will remind myself yet again:  when you see something you want, and you can get it, and it’s exactly what you want, get it right away; it most likely will not be there on the return.  This is the case for photos too, and not just “stuff.”

Monthly production statistics on display so that workers know how close they are to hitting targets

The latest production results

After the quick Petra Diamond Mine video, our guide Fran helped us with our hardhats, and we walked through the “Blue Area” following the path of the kimberlite rock which indicates the presence of diamonds.  Though Botswana is the top producer of the world’s diamonds, the ones found at this mine are the world record-breakers for size and quality for white diamonds, as well as blue ones.

Fran gave us the history of the mine from its beginning in 1903 as Premier Diamond Mining Co.  She explained the 4-C’s (cut, carat, clarity, and color), weight determination, and the stringent rules barring the sale of even the waste material from the mine.  As it’s still fully operational, we were only allowed in certain areas, and were reminded frequently that we were being closely monitored.  Again, I don’t want to reveal to much in hopes that you will visit one day on your own, but we now know the end-to-end process of diamond formation and wear…from volcano to finger, ear, and or neck.

Here’s what it’s like at the very, very beginning of a shaft (with light)

The explosive emulsion that causes the mine implosions

Control room powering push through mine

Huge motor

Super heavy cables supporting transport within the mine

Conveyor belt on which the kimberlite travels

Mini-Grand Canyon at the diamond mine

Of course we were tempted with diamonds from the mine to purchase at the end of the tour, yet despite all the sparkle we toughed it out and cash and cards did not see the light of day.  Instead we talked more about the workers, career progression, and provisions being made for the future of the site after the mine is no longer operating 20-40 years from now.  As with many other former working mines, tourism is expected to play a major role in support for the families of the workers once the mine is closed.

A few of the diamonds unearthed at the mine

Cullinan traditional and modern cut replicas

Beautiful blue Petra Diamonds with the Cullinan Star

Cullinan Diamonds are found within the Queen’s jewels

Once back at the Melrose Arch complex, we wandered through the mall in search of a cardigan to combat the cool temperatures.  We sealed the deal at MANGO, and headed back to the hotel where a pre-birthday birthday cake surprise was awaiting one of our group members!  We shared the cake, wine, a late lunch, and a bunch of laughs before enjoying some independent time before bed.

Interior shot of the Mall at Melrose Arch

Edgar’s Department Store at Melrose Arch

This would have been a really nice birthday gift

Nothing says happy birthday like carrot cake

Tommorow?  Can’t wait.  Robin Binckes will give us more history on South Africa as we tour Soweto  (Johannesburg’s South West Township).

I’m very excited about visiting South Africa again.  I’ve been hit with unpleasant news and events recently, so I’m looking forward to the opportunity to be inspired and recharge!

One of the most challenging things for any trip is packing.  I have a hard time streamlining and can’t quite understand how my bags seem to always exceed the weight restrictions!  This trip is especially challenging because soft duffels are preferred, and once full, cannot weigh more than 44lbs!  That’s checked baggage, and then I get a 8lbs allowance for my carry-on.  My laptop, camera, and chargers weigh more than that!  On previous safaris, I’ve managed to just bare ly meet the rules, but this time, I just can’t seem to part with some of my stuff.  44lbs may seem like quite a bit, but the weight of the bag itself has to be considered in that total.  It’s a lot more difficult than one might think to pull this off.

I’ve become a believer in disposable everything, particularly if it’s biodegradable or course, but there are just some (heavy) things you can’t live without.

Here’s one valuable tool we should all have….a luggage scale.  Spare yourself surprises at the airport, and don’t leave home without it!

My best friend when traveling.

So…I know some of you have been in similar situations before.  Tell me how you’ve managed to leave the heavy stuff at home and prioritze what’s most important (and light)?

I’ll have more on packing for a safari soon.